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Article
New Concepts in Diet II:
The Old Traditions
by Annemarie Colbin, C.H.E.S.
I have been teaching for more than thirty years
that we should eat according to the tradition of our ancestors, in addition
to other concepts. Much of my work was based on a book I read in 1967
called Nutrition and Physical Degeneration, by Weston Price, a
dentist. Dr. Price traveled the world over in the early 30's,
studying the diets of eleven different population groups and the condition
of their teeth. He found universally that those peoples who lived on
their native diets had fine teeth, well-developed dental arches, and easy
childbirth; those who had adopted the refined food of Western
civilization (sugar, white flour, canned vegetables, jams and pastries)
found themselves with a steep rise in dental problems, difficulty with
childbirth, and crowded teeth and malformed jaws in the children of mothers
who ate this way. The Price-Pottenger Foundation has kept this
important work in print all these years.
The work of Sally Fallon and Mary Enig, Ph.D.,
is firmly based on Dr. Prices material. I first encountered them
through an article in Health Freedom News in September 1995, called Soy
Products for Dairy Products? Not so Fast . . . This article
sent shockwaves through the school, and we spent some time discussing it.
In essence, what Fallon and Enig say is that soybeans, as other grains and
beans, are high in enzyme inhibitors which block the action of trypsin
and other enzymes needed for protein digestion . . . (These inhibitors) can
produce serious gastric distress, reduced protein digestion, and chronic
deficiencies in amino acid uptake. . . . The soybean also contains
hemagglutinin, a clot-promoting substance that causes red blood cells to
clump together. Trypsin inhibitors and hemagglutinin have been rightly
labeled growth depressant substances. Second generation
Japanese in America grow taller than their native ancestors, and that may be
because of the reduced phytate content of the American diet. Asian
children who do not get enough meat and fish to counteract the effects of a
high phytate diet frequently suffer rickets, stunting, and other growth
problems, Fallon and Enig contend.
In addition, they write, soybeans are high
in phytic acid or phytates. This organic acid, present in all seeds
and grains, blocks the uptake of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron,
and especially zinc. The trypsin inhibitors and the
phytates are deactivated with soaking and fermentation, but not as much with
cooking or precipitating. For both reasons, then, tofu and soy milk
are not such good food choices, as they both are high in trypsin inhibitors
and phytates; the best soy foods in this regard are naturally
fermented soy sauce or shoyu, miso, tempeh, and natto. Fallon
and Enig point out that traditionally, the Japanese consume tofu with
a mineral-rich fish broth (or miso soup, from my experience), which
helps counter their negative effects, as animal protein reduces the
mineral-blocking effects of the phytates.
While many people are allergic to milk,
allergies to soy products are almost as common. Turning to imitation
dairy products made from soy (soy milk, soy cheese, soy yogurt) may
therefore not be such a good idea, both because of phytates and because of
their allergenic potential. I have always felt uncomfortable with
these highly processed, unnatural foods, so I was pleased to find Fallon and
Enig confirmed my viewpoint. Phytates, incidentally, may affect
thyroid function: one young woman I saw for a consultation who was
pale, wan, losing her hair, and complaining of headache, severe dizziness,
and eye problems, all symptoms of thyroiditis, said her symptoms were gone
in four days after she abandoned her daily tofu and tempeh. Even her
thyroid gland, which had been noticeable before, went down in size.
Fallon and Enig are co-authors, with Patricia
Connolly, of a book that should be next to Prices in any well-stocked
health library: Nourishing Traditions: The cookbook that
challenges politically correct nutrition and the diet dictocrats (ProMotion
Publishing, San Diego, CA: 1995). In a nutshell, these are some
of the basic concepts in this book:
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Nourishing traditional foods include those that our ancestors
ate: fresh, organically raised meats, fowl, eggs; organ meats such as
liver and kidneys from healthy animals; seafood from deep sea waters;
fish eggs; fermented soy and milk products; raw, cultured butter and
cream from healthy cows; extra virgin olive oil, small amounts of flax,
coconut, and other unrefined tropical oils. Fats from healthy,
organically raised animals are prized because of their essential fatty acid
and fat-soluble vitamin content; many studies show that in
traditional natural food diets animal fats are associated with a lower rate
of heart disease.
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To inactivate the phytates, whole grain products and beans
should be soaked for eight hours in acidulated water before cooking.
They recommend adding two tablespoons of whey to each cup of soaking water,
but I found that one tablespoon raw balsamic vinegar or umeboshi vinegar
also work. Nuts should be soaked the same way and dried in a very low
oven rather than consumed raw or toasted.
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Mineral-rich gelatinous stocks and broths should be an
integral part of our cooking repertoire. This used to be common, as
when people ate jellied dishes like aspic, calfs foot jelly, oxtail stew,
birds nest soup, pigs head, and the like. While our current
dietary customs rarely include these, it would not be difficult for us to
make sure we always have a supply of vegetable, chicken, fish, or meat
stocks in the freezer, and use these to enrich all our soups, sauces, grain,
and bean dishes. The fanciest chefs in the most high-toned restaurants
always use scraps and leftovers to make nutritious, mineral-rich stocks just
like our grandmothers did.
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Naturally fermented vegetables such as pickles and sauerkraut
are recommended as regular side dishes to aid in the digestion of grains,
beans, and protein.
The most controversial aspect of Fallon and
Enigs work is that they recommend the regular consumption of butter,
tropical fats like coconut oil, full fat milk products, fowl, game, beef,
and organ meats. However, they do make a very strong case about the
importance of organically and naturally raised animals, and that the poor
diet, crowded conditions, antibiotics, steroids, and other drugs of the
commercial animal industry makes commercial animal protein and fats as
unhealthy as claimed. I believe Fallon and Enig do have a point:
cancer, heart disease, osteoporosis, immune disorders, and other
degenerative diseases have been rising during this century, when the
consumption of refined, processed, chemicalized, commercially produced foods
and animals raised on mega-farms has increased dramatically. When Dr.
Price studied traditional societies that lived on natural meats, fats,
fermented grains, and vegetables, he did not find any of those health
problems.
I believe there are a lot of valuable ideas in
Fallon and Enigs work. Even if you are a vegan, the practice of
soaking and fermenting grains, beans, nuts, seeds, and vegetables, and
cooking with vegetable stocks, can only increase the digestibility and
nutritional content of your meals. I found that adding a piece of
kombu to the stock, or a tablespoon of agar to the soup, will add valuable
minerals without the need for animal products. Try some of these
techniques, as we did at the school, and see for yourself. Soaked and
dried walnuts are an unexpected treat!
For more information, or to purchase the book,
contact the Price-Pottenger Nutrition Foundation, P.O. Box 2614, La Mesa, CA
91943-2614 - 1-800-366-3748 - fax (619) 574-1314 - e-mail: info@price-pottenger.org.
If you join the organization as a member, youll get quarterly issues of
their Health Journal, which has excellent and original articles on
food and diet.
Here is a recipe for fermented pineapple from Nourishing
Traditions that I absolutely love.
PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY - Makes 1 quart
1 small pineapple, peeled, core removed, cubed
1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup whey (obtained by putting organic plain
yogurt in a cheese-cloth lined colander and allowing the whey to drip out
for 24 hours)
1/2 cup filtered or spring water
1. Mix pineapple, cilantro, and ginger
and place in a quart-sized wide mouth mason jar. Press down with a
wooden spoon or pounder.
2. Mix lime juice, seasalt, whey, and
water, and pour over the pineapple mixture. Add more water if needed
to cover. Cover tightly. Keep at room temperature for 2 days,
when its ready; then transfer to refrigerator. Should be
eaten within a month.
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